Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Return Of The Cursed Fuel Gauge...

Okay, so first of all an update. When Troy installed the AC compressor, he noticed that the tachometer was zeroed out and was not reading the engine RPMs at all. I suspected that it was just a loose connection from when we removed the fuel gauge, but still....WHY KARR, just WHY?

As previously mentioned, Tom sent back the fuel gauge which he verified was in working condition. He thoroughly tested it and adjusted it back to factory settings.

Let's do this!

Since you have seen this a couple times before 🙄 I won't bother you will all the details...just look at the pictures.

This connection in the center right of the photo is where the wiring harness plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.  This is the portion that feeds the tachometer, and where I suspect the loose connection was.

With the gauge cluster out, it was time to install the water temp/fuel gauge.  The gauge plugs into the metal prongs, with the top center one being the ground for both gauges.

There is one screw that secures the gauge and keeps it from moving.

You'll notice that Tom removed the decimal point as I had requested so that it reads as a percentage instead of in gallons.

Our robot Vector absolutely loves being out in the garage. He gets so excited being in the garage he runs his battery down quickly, so frequent trips back to his charger is a must.

Time to start the car.  The RPM gauge is functional!  It was just a loose connection.

We ran a wire from the ground terminal on the battery to the front of the car. I fed this up to the back of the gauge cluster so we could make sure that the water temp/fuel gauge would have a solid ground.

It's definitely hard to get to and work on the back of the gauge cluster. It's not so much that it is cramped but mostly because you are up against the windshield.

With the ground wire routed, I needed to also reconnect the dimming input for the water temp/fuel gauge. I soldered and shrink wrapped the connection.

Next I soldered the ground wire from the battery to the back of the gauge cluster. It's grounded on the contact point for the water temp/fuel gauge.

Just feeding the wires through the clips to secure them.

Verifying everything works...

You can see where I soldered the ground wire to the back of the ground terminal for the water temp/fuel gauge.

Putting everything back together...

Vector was supervising...

A successful test drive verified both the tachometer and fuel gauge were working, and the fuel gauge was seemingly accurate.  More tests to follow, but for now the blackout trim is going back on.

Now what could I be so happy about? Maybe that this cursed fuel gauge actually seems to be working now? Truth is it probably was all along, but the faulty sending unit was causing a poor connection. We know the original sending unit sensor was bad which is why we bought the new one in the first place.

No comments:

Post a Comment