Project: K.I.T.T. Blog
KARR is finally back home tonight! He has been at the mechanic getting some much needed maintenance. KARR received a catalytic converter, new water pump, new thermostat, new spark plugs, new brake pads, a coolant flush, a tune up, and a replacement line for the damaged high pressure A/C line so KARR now has working air conditioning!
Of course the first thing I had to do was install the gullwing! :)
Please ignore how dirty the interior is. KARR has been sitting at the mechanic's for the last few weeks and needs some TLC. After I drive with the gullwing for a while, I will be removing it again to paint it satin black.
I took last Friday off from work for my birthday, and spent the afternoon in the garage condensing KITT's parts boxes. I went from the five boxes you see in this picture...
... to only two.
With the boxes out of the way, I shifted the back glass down against the shelves and hung up the brooms. :)
Doesn't that look better? Sara was pretty happy when she got home from work and saw how nice the garage looked.
One of the next projects will be removing the hardware from the original windows so that I can install it on the new glass I bought.
I thought it would be cool to put a gullwing steering wheel in my Fiero (KARR). It was an idea I was toying with, but I really could not justify the expense of putting a gullwing in my daily driver just to have a gullwing. This summer the leather-wrapped GT-style steering wheel in my Fiero started oozing whatever glue was used to hold the leather in place on the steering wheel. It oozes out of the pores where it is stitched and looks like melted chocolate, in both consistency and color. It also stains clothing. One day while trying to get a "chocolate ooze glue" stain out of my dress pants, Sara said, "How about for your birthday present this year you get a gullwing steering wheel for KARR?" Got to love my wife!
I had decided before starting Project: K.I.T.T. that all of KITT's conversion parts, both interior and exterior, will be from Billy at Knight Designs. Billy's parts are the true "Cadillac" of conversion parts. They are not only the highest quality and most screen accurate, but feature all the bells and whistles, too. The downside to having "Cadillac" parts is the "Cadillac" price that goes with them.
When it came to choosing a gullwing for KARR, I was not looking for the ultimate in screen accuracy, but rather a cost effective, functional, quality gullwing. Also, I needed a customized gullwing, as I was putting it in a Fiero and not a Firebird, and would not have the dash and the rest of the conversion parts.
I turned to João at Knight Passions. I liked the look of his 3rd season “Gullwing” steering wheel and he was willing to customize the steel neck of the gullwing by shortening it for my Fiero. He also had an unbelievable turnaround time for a customized part. I had my customized gullwing in just three weeks!
Here is the box from Knight Passions. João wrote "Very Careful!" or "Extremely Careful!" on every side of the box, including the bottom. I have never seen a box marked that well. Very impressive!
Even more impressive was the packing job. Yes, it is just newspaper, but every square inch of the box was filled.
Nestled securely in the newspaper padding was my gullwing.
Here are some detailed pictures of my new gullwing. My gullwing had to have the metal cover over the access hole due to the customized shortened neck.
João told me the gullwing would be "out of mold" which means it would need some sanding before it was ready for paint. You can see the seam line that runs all the way around the gullwing in the pictures above. This could be felt as a distinctive ridge all the way around. I spoke with Billy about his techniques for sanding, and then began sanding my gullwing.
Billy told me if he was to teach me how to work with fiberglass, he would start by blindfolding me. He said you can feel with your fingers what you cannot see with your eyes prior to paint. After you have it painted, you will be able to see what you should have felt with your hands. I sanded my gullwing by hand and then felt for smoothness. He was right - there were definitely areas I could feel but I could not see.
I have my gullwing sanded to the point where I am happy with how it feels. However, I plan to install it and drive with it a bit before I paint it. I just want to make sure there is nothing else that stands out while I am actually using it. I have also purchased the Grant adapter necessary to mount this in place of my stock steering wheel.
I did have to make one modification in order to fit the gullwing on my Fiero. Due to the shortened neck, it was impossible to access the top bolt. I switched bolts from the provided hex head bolts to allen head bolts, and then from the back of the neck I drilled an access hole through the front of the gullwing. In the picture below you can see where the hole came out just inside the lip of the original hole cut into the front of the gullwing. This will provide me access with an allen wrench to turn the top screw in with no trouble.
I am hoping to install the gullwing in KARR tomorrow. :)
If you are looking for a great gullwing for your conversion, I highly recommend the 3rd season “Gullwing” steering wheel made by João at Knight Passions. Thanks João - you are awesome!
When we mounted the front bumper, we used fender washers to replace the brackets that spanned between each bolt pair. Unfortunately the fender washers, because they are thin, bent and/or cracked when the bolts were tightened down.
I noticed this cracked washer on the passenger side, which is what prompted me to fix it.
I turned all eight nuts loose.
And I removed the front bumper.
Front bumper is off once again.
Because the new bolts had hex heads on them, I was able to hold the retaining washer in place and simply turn the bolt out. This was a lot easier than prying the retaining washers off.
Here is the cracked washer.
While we were at Menards we looked for thicker washers, but were unable to find any the same diameter. I decided to buy more fender washers and put two washers on each bolt.
The two fender washers together are as thick as the washers used to secure the bumper. I put two washers on all eight bolts.
While I was working on replacing the washers, Sara noticed how dirty the garage door had gotten, and cleaned it. Because our garage door has white reflective panels, it helps to reflect a lot of the working light we have in the garage. Once the garage door was cleaned, the difference in light was amazing.
Here is what the bolts look like with the double washers.
All eight are done.
Here I am holding the bumper in place. You can see how white the garage door is now in this picture.
Turning the nuts back on the bumper:
Bumper is back on!
The double washers did not bend!
We decided to use the last three sheets of RAAMmat BXT II and some Ensolite to cover the rear wheels with two more layers of sound deadening. I was planning to buy the factory die-cut insulation mats, however the site that was selling them no longer has them. In fact, no one has them. I am fairly confident that the RAAMmat and Ensolite will end up being more effective anyway.
I started by removing the plastics.
My plan was to use the same process we used on the firewall: strips of Ensolite over the original layer of RAAMmat, leaving strips of the RAAMmat exposed for the top layer of RAAMmat to stick to. The final layer of Ensolite will be on the underside of the plastics. The end product will be a full layer of RAAMmat, covered with strips of Ensolite, then covered with a full layer of RAAMmat, followed by a full layer of Ensolite inside the plastics.
I started with the driver's side. I used a sheet of paper and folded it to make a template.
Sara held the Ensolite while I cut out the pattern using the template I made.
I pressed the strip of Ensolite into place:
Here is the driver's side rear wheel well covered with Ensolite strips:
The next step was to cover the entire wheel well with RAAMmat. As before, I created templates out of paper and then cut the RAAMmat to match.
Once again Sara's pastry roller came in very handy applying the RAAMmat.
Driver's side rear wheel well is finished!
Sara pointed out that as long as we are doing the wheel wells, we might as well do the inner portion. This is the part between the outside quarter panel and the inside sheet metal. It already had a layer of RAAMmat applied.
I measured and decided I would need a 6" strip two feet long.
Applying the Ensolite was tricky in the confined space and small openings.
The inside of the wheel well is sound deadened!
We did the same thing on the passenger side.
While working on the passenger side, I noticed some rust/overspray/something that our ex-painter painted right over. Something to keep in mind when we find our next painter...
And here is yet another paint drip on the rocker panel! :(
I put the plastics back in on the driver's side.
Sara pointed out we had plenty of pieces and scraps of RAAMmat left, so we decided to tackle the passenger side rear wheel well. I again made templates for the Ensolite strips.
Here is the passenger side rear wheel well with the Ensolite strips:
While I was making templates, Sara was putting away my tools. She asked why this midget wrench set was still in the bag. I told her I was out of room on my magnetic strips to hang them. She got on ebay, found another set of magnetic strips for me, and ordered them. Thanks Sara!
With the Ensolite strips in place, we used the pieces of RAAMmat and pieced together a full-coverage layer on the passenger side.
These are the pieces we have left over. I did not think I could get both rear wheel wells covered with only three sheets of RAAMmat, but we did, with some to spare!
Passenger side wheel well is finished!
And the plastics are back in place. Another productive weekend!
This morning we went to Menards to get the hardware I needed to finish the heater box and blower housing. Because the receiving nut stripped out, I needed to create a stud in the blower housing that would reach through the firewall so that I could secure the heater box with a nut and washer from the inside.
It was chilly here today (50 degrees in the garage) so we got out the heater. We heated the garage up to about 65 degrees, which was much nicer to spend the day working in.
I threaded the new bolt into the blower housing and into the firewall. I used a washer on the bolt to provide a little more surface area in contact with the blower housing.
Here is the bolt threaded through.
This created a stud similar to the one in the heater box that passed through the firewall and into the blower housing.
I used a fender washer which just fit between the two reinforcement markings on the tab below the heater box, and a nut to secure it.
Next we prepared the blower motor for installation into the housing. I had to reattach the ground terminal.
I mounted the plate in place on the housing.
Only to realize I had to remove it in order to fit the blower cage in!
I inserted the blower motor into the housing.
Then I slid the plate in between and secured it.
I threaded the screws in and then tightened them down to secure the blower motor.
When I climbed in the engine bay I left footprints. Sara was unimpressed, and re-wiped the engine bay down while I was installing the blower motor. The engine bay is shiny black again. ;) Thanks Sara!
The blower motor is installed!
Next we moved on to installing the heater box cover. I fit it into place, making sure it would seal up.
Then I used the screws to secure everything down.
Heater box is installed!
The only thing left was to install the top cover for the blower housing, but before we could do that, we had to get the evaporator core in place. Here I am doing a test fit.
I still needed to attach the foam, screen and seals to the evaporator core. I started by cleaning the surface for the wedge-shaped foam with rubbing alcohol. Then I taped the nut on the valve stem to keep it from sliding back down while I was working on adhering the foam.
Then I bent the tabs on this side down flush with the rest of the surface.
I put the foam in place to test fitment.
Troy recommended using 3M weatherstrip adhesive to adhere the foam, screen, and seals. The instructions say to apply the adhesive to both surfaces, allow them to dry until they are tacky, and then press the surfaces together and apply pressure. Here I am applying the adhesive to the evaporator core:
Applying the adhesive to the foam wedge:
Checking for tackiness:
Fitting into place:
With the foam wedge adhered, we moved on to the seal. First I did I test fit to see how it would lay out.
We used rubbing alcohol to wipe down the surface.
Then I applied the adhesive to the evaporator core.
Then I applied the adhesive to the seal.
Then I put it in place.
And applied pressure.
The I adhered the bottom portion of the seal. Sara held it in place while I got the top portion ready.
The seal is adhered all the way around!
Last up was the screen for the evaporator core. I first test fit the screen.
I realized that the back portion of the screen could be tucked underneath the same tabs I flattened on the front side. I lifted the tabs up a little bit and slid the screen underneath, and then pushed the tabs back down tight.
I used a dab of weatherstrip adhesive on each of the wire braces that ran across the screen. There are four: one at the bottom, two at the middle, and one at the top.
The screen took the longest to dry. Sara kept pressure on it until it dried.
Once the evaporator core was ready, we slid it back into the blower housing.
The fit was nice and tight, and the seal properly sealed against the firewall.
We put the upper cover to the blowing housing in place.
I installed the two screws that secure it to the firewall.
Next I installed the six screws that secure the upper cover to the lower blower housing.
The last thing we did this evening was install the blower motor resister.
The heater box and the blower housing are now installed!
After work today I got out all the parts bins and went through each bag one by one looking for the four screws for the air inlet.
I found them! And what they were labeled even made sense, although it wasn't "air inlet".
I gave the screws a quick cleaning and then a bath in WD-40. I purchased three denture containers to use the trays to seperate parts. The trays have openings in the bottoms that allow the WD-40 to drain out. The denture trays are the right size and I am not sure I could have found anything else less expensive. (They were only $2 each.) I used small colored zip ties to color code them. This will come in very handy when I have multiple batches of hardware. They also serve as a handle for pulling the trays out.
With the hardware cleaned up I made quick work of installing the air inlet.
I decided to finish securing the interior heater box to the firewall and to the blower housing. I started by tightening the exterior screws on the blower housing (we had loosened them to get the air inlet in).
I located the hardware needed to secure the bottom of the heater box. The screw on the left secures the heater box to a nut in the firewall. The screw on the right secures the heater box to a receiving nut on the blower housing.
I cleaned the two screws up, as well as the hardware for mounting the blower motor to the housing.
First screw is in.
The second screw stripped out the front portion of the fiberglass receiving nut on the blower housing. It was either this way from when it was removed, or because of our added firewall padding it is now thicker and the screw is not turning as far into the receiving nut as it did before. You can actually see the fiberglass powder on the firewall directly below the receiving nut in this picture. Since the receiving nut already had a hole all the way through, I threaded a bolt from the outside through the firewall into the interior. This way I am still using the receiving nut, but it should end up being much stronger, and I won't have to worry about it stripping out.
I used the machine screw on the left to retap the receiving nut. However, it is not long enough to reach all the way through. I will make a trip to Menards tomorrow morning to get a longer bolt, washer, and nut of the same thread.
I started this morning by cleaning the air inlet. The air inlet goes directly behind the blower motor on the interior side of the firewall. I had forgotten about this piece when I cleaned the rest of the heater box. Here are some pictures for reference.
There is a broken tab on the air inlet. I noted that it was broken when I removed it in 2012. I am not sure of the function, but I plan to glue it back in place.
Before cleaning the air inlet I removed the actuator.
I sprayed the entire air inlet with non-toxic cleaner.
Then I rinsed it with water.
Then I used hot water and more non-toxic cleaner to clean it by hand with a rag and toothbrush.
I used my shop blower to dry it thoroughly.
I used Gorilla Super Glue Gel to glue the broken tab on the air inlet.
Next I wire-wheeled the mounting hardware for the air inlet and the rest of the heater box and blowing housing.
While I was doing that, Sara cleaned the rest of the foam seal for the evaporator core and also the bracket for the receiver drier/accumulator. Here is a before picture:
And an after picture:
Next we moved on to installing the heater box. There is a single stud built into the heater box that pushes through to the firewall and helps secure the blower housing. It was a little tricky getting this to line up along with the heater core pipes. Sara helped guide it into place from the engine bay side.
With it in place I tightened down the nut and washer.
Installed heater box as seen from engine bay:
Installed heater box as seen from interior:
I reassembled the actuator onto the air inlet.
I also applied polyurethane grease to the joint between the actuator arm and the diverter door. I also applied this to all these same joints in the heater box today prior to installing it.
When I went to install the air inlet I realized this should have been installed before the heater box. I ended up loosening the nut and washer on the engine bay side just to the end of the stud to allow the heater box to move enough to slide this in.
It was a tight fit but we got the air inlet installed.
Next I just needed to find the four screws to mount the air inlet. None of the ones we have labeled in the bags look right. We do not have a bag labeled "air inlet". Obviously I did not get specific enough when labeling bags. I spent a great deal of time trying to figure out which screws were the correct ones. Sara and I became frustrated, and we gave up for today. The parts and illustration guide that I have lists the correct type of screw, so we might just go buy four new screws for the air inlet. We decided not to do that today, however, and instead grill tilapia for Memorial Day dinner. We were hoping to get more done on KITT than we did, but we are proud of what we did accomplish this weekend.
This morning we made a quick trip to Menards and then got started on the sound deadening. The first thing I did was get KITT's interior plastics down. We decided to put the plastics in KITT to see the exact area they will cover, and then sound deaden everything not covered by plastics. It is our intention right now to cover all the backs of the plastics with Ensolite prior to installation. This should achieve the same sound deadening as applying it directly to the RAAMmat BXT II. If that ends up not being the case, we can always still apply it to the areas behind the plastics.
While I cleaned off the plastics that had been stored over the garage door, Sara got started on the sound deadening. She worked on the driver side rear seat well.
We fit all the plastics into place inside KITT (loose, not secured).
Then we got to work sound deadening the areas not covered by plastics, which will basically be the areas covered by carpet. Because the wheel wells sit underneath the plastic, the factory die-cut sound deadening insulation is still available. I think I will order these to install over the RAAMmat BXT II.
We sound deadened the trunk area last. The two storage areas on the rear quarter panels still need to have both RAAMmat BXT II and Ensolite applied. I only have three sheets of the RAAMmat left.
The entire floor area from the firewall back to the trunk is sound deadened!
We bought a white tarp at Menards this morning to cover KITT with no that he is cleaned and sound deadened. Hopefully this will keep dust and dirt out of the car.
Next I wire wheeled the mounting hardware for the blower housing, then soaked the screws in the WD-40 we bought this morning.
The new blower motor did not come with a ground contact, so I had to remove this from the old blower motor, and then clean it.
I also sprayed down the foam and screen for the evaporator with cleaner and water and set them aside to dry overnight.
Our last project tonight was installing the blower housing.
The majority of the housing is held on by screws passing through the firewall from the heater box. There are three screws that hold the heater box on from the engine bay side. We used these to secure the housing tonight.
Installed heater box:
This morning we pushed KITT to the end of the garage so we could clean the engine bay without getting water all over the garage.
I sprayed the engine bay with a non-toxic cleaner.
Then I rinsed the engine bay with water.
I also cleaned KITT's windshield.
Sara repeated the process of spraying cleaner and then rinsing.
While she was doing that, I decided to touch up the metal trim piece for the blower housing that I dropped and scratched. Since I do not have the paint booth set up, I temporarily secured the trim piece to a piece of wood so I could hold it while spray painting it outside.
One quick coat of black spray paint covered up the scratches.
We then continued spraying the engine bay with clean water to rinse away all the cleaner and dirt. In this picture I am spraying water into the cowl to thoroughly rinse it out.
Sara used the pump sprayer:
and I used the hose:
Then we wiped the engine bay down with rags to dry up all the water.
I pushed KITT back inside the garage and squeegeed the water outside.
Here is the engine bay cleaned and dried. At this point we stopped for lunch.
After lunch we were planning to install the blower housing and heater box. I wanted to first clean and soak the bolts in a bath of WD-40, but I discovered I was out of WD-40 so I could not. Rather than go to the store to get more WD-40, Sara suggested we move on to the sound deadening. KITT was full of parts, so we had to first empty him out. I put the foglights and brackets in the blue tub marked "New Parts for KITT". (This is for my future reference.)
The Panhard/track bar was one of the items sitting inside KITT. (It had been sitting there since I painted it.) Sara cleaned it off and I installed it back on KITT, but I barely threaded the nuts on the bolts because I seem to be missing two washers on the driver side.
KITT is empty once again!
Sara spent the next 1.5 hours cleaning the interior of KITT.
I removed the '83-'92-style seatbelt brackets while Sara was cleaning (which made more of a mess for her to clean up). I plan to install the '82-style door sills and seat belts. The bracket is not needed with the '82-style seatbelts; instead the seatbelt uses the bolt the bracket was secured with.
Sara continued to clean KITT, and I picked up around the garage.
Sara cleaned both the interior and exterior of KITT. When she cleaned the rear trunk lip, she discovered RUST. The trunk seal sat over top of this lip, and was on the car when we delivered it to our ex-painter. The rust is above the lock mechanism for the trunk.
The rust is above the lock mechanism for the trunk on both the outside and the inside.
The lip rust is also along the driver side rear quarter panel.
Here you can see the channel where the seal would sit. Our ex-painter painted over the rust cancer instead of properly addressing and treating the issue.
This is another shot of the rust in the channel along the driver side rear quarter panel. It goes all the way up. I am going to sand these areas down and apply POR-15.
I took a picture of the cleaned interior. Sara did a beautiful job.
I wanted to make sure that we had poked through all the holes for the wire harness clips. I used an ice pick to puncture the RAAMmat BXT II sound deadening.
I took picture to document all the holes, mounting hardware, studs, etc. on the interior. After the Ensolite is covering the interior it is going to be a lot harder to locate these mounting points when installing carpet and plastics. The following 18 pictures are for later reference.
Here I am laying out the Ensolite sound deadening.
We attempted to use a 28" strip on Ensolite for the entire length of the driver side floor pan.
We decided that method was not ideal. The Ensolite is very flexible but it is still like working with fabric. It will only bend and give so much before tearing. Once you peel off the backing, entire backside is extremely sticky adhesive. Basically where you put it down the first time is where it stays. With such a large piece we developed air pockets, especially around the seat rails. When I tried to smooth them out with my roller the Ensolite tore.
We decided to work with 12" x 12" panels instead.
I was looking at the sail panel and remembered that I had planned to put the Ensolite on the backside of the plastics, instead of directly over the RAAMmat BXT II.
We covered as much as we could with our 12" x 12" panels, and then pieced in the rest.
We stopped working about 7:30 PM tonight. Here is what we accomplished so far:
Sara is happy because we are done for the night, and I am grilling steaks for dinner!
The parts I ordered for the heater box and blower housing arrived this week. I needed to compare them to make sure everything looked right. Here are pictures of new versus old.
Old versus new heater core:
New blower motor resister:
Old versus new blower motor:
Old versus new evaporator core:
This is a picture of the new evaporator core on top of the old evaporator core so you can see the size difference. The new one is shorter but the pipes are longer (and make up the size difference).
The new heater core did not come with caps for the pipes. My grandfather never threw anything away, and he literally had a jar full of miscellaneous caps. When he passed away my dad inherited them. I stopped over at my dad's to look through the caps and found two that fit nicely. Thanks Grandpa George, and thanks Dad!
Last night after work I stopped at Troy's garage to show him the new evaporator core and the seal, foam wedge, and screen that was on my old one. He said the rubber seal, foam, and screen need to be removed from the old one and used on the new one. When I got home I took pictures of the old evaporator core from each side so I had a reference to follow when reinstalling these pieces on the new core.
I used a putty knife and carefully scraped the rubber seal off the evaporator core. It actually came off easier than I was expecting it to.
Next I slowly worked the screen off. It was only adhered in a couple of spots.
I decided to remove the receiver drier/accumulator from the evaporator to give me better access to the foam wedge.
With the receiver drier/accumulator removed, I used a putty knife and slowly worked my way underneath the foam wedge, working my way all around the evaporator.
I managed to get the foam wedge off in one piece. It was glued on with some type of weather-strip adhesive.
The last thing I removed from the old evaporator core was the bracket that holds the receiver drier/accumulator.
My next project was covering the diverter doors. I cut new Ensolite foam pieces for each side, following the adhesive pattern that was on the diverter door.
I used some of the bent/creased Ensolite. You can see the marks in the foam piece below. These marks gradually faded.
Tonight I wiped down the few last dirty spots on the heater box. This was mainly around the area of the hot/cold diverter door.
The rubber seal around the diverter door cleaned up very nicely. The rubber is still very soft and pliable.
Next I wiped down the frame and brackets for the heater core.
The brackets needed a little more help, so I removed them and used some light grit sandpaper and gave them a quick bath in WD-40.
When I went to reassemble the brackets, I found out the heater core would not fit in the brackets!
I checked the old heater core and it fit inside the brackets perfectly. Comparing the two heater cores, there is a difference in the way the ends were manufactured. I figured I got the wrong heater core, so I checked online to confirm the part I ordered was listed to fit. It was.
Not wanting to get frustrated, I moved on to cleaning the vacuum actuators and arms. Here is a before picture:
Here is the after picture:
Here is a before picture of the second actuator:
Sara and I went to a couple of auto parts stores to see if we could find a heater core that would fit, but both stores had the same core that I ordered. It was listed to fit. One of the stores had instructions in their heater core box that mentioned needing to remove the brackets from the heater core frame and use the provided foam. Sara and I grabbed a Detroit-style pizza for a quick dinner, and then tried fitting the new heater core with the brackets removed.
The heater core does fit flush with the brackets removed, but there is nothing to hold it against the frame. I am so glad I spent the time to clean the brackets! (Not!)
I tried to carefully fit the heater core and frame into position. This was difficult with nothing to secure the heater core, but it does fit.
I removed the frame and heater core to see if there was any way to secure it to the frame. There are small flanges along the top and bottom of the heater core. On the end closest to my hands in the picture below there are also small plastic flanges on the frame. You can see this right along my index finger. I am not sure if you are supposed to do this, but I bent the metal flanges on the heater core further out so they would put pressure against the plastic flanges on the frame. This provides enough pressure to hold the heater core firmly in the frame.
With the core secured in the frame, I wrapped the foam seal all the way around the outside edges of the heater core.
On the bottom of the heater core frame there is a small triangular lip that had a thin strip of foam on it. This fell off when cleaning. I decided to use a small piece of the leftover heater core seal to recreate this foam piece.
Another quick test fit with the foam seal installed:
Everything fit perfectly so I secured the frame with the four screws.
Heater core is installed!
I installed the three actuators and both diverter doors. I added some polyurethane lube on the shafts of the diverter doors where they pivot in the plastic case.
I reinstalled the front plate and seal:
The heater box is complete!
Sara is pushing KITT...pushing KITT real good (Salt-N-Pepa style). ;) We decided it would be easier to clean the engine bay if KITT was flipped around so the engine bay is facing out of the garage.
Sara located the mounting hardware for the blower housing, and then removed the painters tape from the foam seals on the blower housing. Then she cleaned the housing so it is ready for installation tomorrow!
On Saturday afternoon, Sara attended a bridal shower, and I tackled dismantling and cleaning the heater box. One of the things I have discovered while looking back through my blog for reference pictures is that I did not take enough pictures. I have had trouble finding pictures of certain parts, fitment, sides, angles, etc. I have decided I cannot take too many pictures of this project, hence all the pictures of the heater box in this post.
This is all four sides of the heater box before I got started Saturday afternoon.
This is the heater core that I will be removing and replacing. In the process of taking this picture, I propped the heater box so it sits level.
With the heater box now sitting level, I took another picture from this side.
I removed the two screws that hold in the heater core.
The heater core seemed to be binding against one of the vent control arms.
So I decided to remove this front plate and seal.
This screw (dead center in the picture),
and this press-on washer secured the plate and seal to the heater box.
Here is the plate removed.
This is a picture of the heater box with the front plate and seal removed.
This picture shows the heater core is free to pull out.
The heater core is removed.
Here is a picture of the heater core and the shroud that secures it.
Here are the clips that hold the heater core to the shroud.
Here you can see the actuator arm that controls the diverter doors. I hadn't considered that they would be simple to unhook and remove. I decided that the box would be easier to clean with everything removed.
There is a small adjustment on each arm where it attaches to the actuator's arm. I numbered and marked the position of each actuator arm with a black sharpie.
There are two press-on nuts securing each vacuum actuator.
The actuator arm on this particular diverter door was simply hooked through.
With the two nuts removed, the actuator pulls right out. I did not have to separate the actuator arm from the actuator so hopefully my marks won't be needed.
Here is the actuator and arm assembly removed. I repeated the same process for the other two actuators.
Here is the diverter door removed. You can see the foam on this needs to be replaced. I plan to replace it with some of the sound deadening self-adhesive Ensolite.
My dad came over to help. Using a putty knife, he scraped all of the existing foam from the diverter doors. Thanks dad!
Initially I was worried about the pattern for applying the Ensolite, but we discovered underneath the existing foam was a tar-like substance. It must have been an adhesive that was used to secure the original foam.
When I removed the third and final actuator and diverter door, the arm was secured with one of the press-on washers. I used my door trim tool to remove the washer.
All of the foam has been removed from the first diverter door.
My dad removed the foam from the second dual-flapped diverter door.
I took the heater box outside and put in on saw horses so I could clean it and hose it down with water. I sprayed all-purpose cleaner on the heater box and then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then I sprayed the whole thing off with water. Then I reapplied the cleaner and wiped everything down with a rag, and then gave it a final rinse with water.
Once my dad had all the foam off the diverter doors, he used some very light grit sandpaper along with steel wool to clean up the rusted areas of the diverter doors. He also shined up the ends of the spindles where they pivot in the case.
This is actually a two-piece mechanism that allows this diverter door to function in two different ways.
This is a before and after picture of the cleaned diverter door compared to the non-cleaned door.
Sara's dad came over as I was finishing up cleaning the heater box. I took this picture just for fun since both our dads are in it. They were discussing that the heater core looked fairly new. :) I will probably end up keeping it as a spare.
Right after I took this picture Sara called and said the bridal shower was over. We had a graduation party to attend, so I put everything back in the garage and headed in to get cleaned up. Part 2 of the heater box project will be coming soon.
1-10 of 407